World Map Hex Boards, Farm Houses & Dungeon Crawls…OH MY!


It seems this past week has had me working on several projects simultaneously but not really making any progress on any of them.  “Waffling” was the term an old economics professor liked to use, although I prefer the term “prepping”.  I have a few things to post this week and hopefully they’ll all catch their stride now that some things are in place.  I could have posted them all as separate topics but why not throw everything on the table at once?  It is more fun that way right?

First is the DIY World Hex map:

This has been made using the same technique as the skirmish Battle Board but using a 1 inch hex instead of a 2 inch:


Back during the holiday break my brother-in-law and I spent an afternoon creating a handful of little buildings using trim wood.  We used a band saw and a belt sander and came up with quite a little collection of village pieces.


They’ve been sitting patiently waiting for their turn in the queue along with all the other projects.  These will be used as markers designating resource centers and city/skill upgrades for the game.


I also received my resource tokens from  Mayday Games.  This is the King’s Deluxe Wooden Token Set and the Energy/Lightning Bolt Token set.  They will represent the resources stone, wood, gold and faith.


Another project that I finished was the Linka Farm House:



I took break last weekend and tried out some the rules I’m using to see if they transfer over to a dungeon crawl solo run.  Nothing too heavy, as it needs some adjustments for that setting, but I think it will work for a quick play set of rules or one for kids, families,  or those just getting into tabletop dungeon crawls.





After posting all of this I suppose that I actually have made some progress.  The nice things about this blog is it does help to keep me focused and on track with where I’ve been, where I’m at, and where I’m going.   So my goal next week is to work on the World Map and get it to the point where I can start some play-testing on that side of the game.

Thanks for dropping by,

Night Owl




Combining Linka and Hirst Arts molds for a 20mm WWII Farm

Life has gotten pretty busy now that the kids are out of school for the summer, but somehow I have managed to get a few things done this week.


Here are a few more ruins using the Linka molds.  These are smaller pieces using just corners:


A larger piece:



And, finally a few pieces that compose a farm setting.  These are not permanently attached to a base as I like to keep things modular so they will work together or separately.



I used the Hirst Arts wood shingle casts from mold #240 for my roof and although they are designed for 28mm I think they work just fine for 20mm.  I also used the double sided, single width fieldstone pieces from mold #75 to make my garden walls.


And with some decorative goodies to show how I plan on using the farm:



I’ve found that if you choose carefully there are some nice combinations one can come up with using both the Hirst Arts and Linka mold systems.


Night Owl

A scenic detour through 20mm WWII

As I was getting my next army lined up for paint and terrain I found myself walking into the hobby room and turning around to walk back out.  It isn’t that I’m not excited about the next army, if fact I’m quite looking forward to it, but I found myself wanting to take a break from the 28mm fantasy stuff before I got burned out on it.  I’ve learned to sense when the fire is starting to fizzle and it was time to take a detour for a bit.

I thought a nice diversion would be to revisit the Linka moulds and spend a little more time with them.  In all honesty, the more I work with them the more I  like them.  The product can be found at

I cast up about 100 or so panels and went to work making bombed out buildings and ruins.


I started by piecing together some corners and gluing them to a base of cork sheeting.  Then I added some Woodland Scenics rock molds to the inner areas along with some splintered craft sticks, kitty litter and sand that got soaked with a 50/50 water/white glue mix.



I let this dry for a few hours, carefully shook off the loose material and primed them. I then dry brushed some earthy colors before dirtying them up with darker “burned up” colors.




I don’t want to add posters since they lock it into a time and place so I’ll keep everything generic enough to be used in several genres: WWII East and West as well as post apocalyptic.  I’m planning on keeping them on modular bases that can be rearranged differently on the tabletop for each game.  These six buildings should suffice in covering a 2′ X 2′ piece of modular pink foam.

This is the first batch of finished buildings:


The same buildings from the reverse side:


For size reference with some 20mm miniatures:



As you can see I wanted to add enough rubble to really portray a bombed out city but still leave enough area open for the placement and movement of miniatures, artillery and tanks.

I think I’ll build enough to cover another panel and then create something a little larger like a warehouse yard or a supply depot.

Thanks for dropping by,

Night Owl



Linka Molds

I recently acquired several brick Linka molds.  I’ve worked with Hirst molds for a couple of years now  and I thought why not start on some WWII era projects for smaller armies.  These are classified as 1/76 scale and can be used for several scales including HO(1/87) and 20mm (1/72).  So I cleaned them with soap and knowing that I always make more hydrocal than I need I proceeded to spend the afternoon pouring Linka and Hirst Arts molds.

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The Linka molds are made of a flexible plastic that almost resembles firm rubber.  There is a little bit of a learning curve with using these.  Hirst Arts silicone molds allow you the push the product out of the mold when it has dried.  Linka molds, on the other hand, require you to “peel” the mold off the finished product.  The web site recommends that you do not flex the molds so do not  twist them just peel them.  For those of you who have used both products that will make sense.

The best advice I can give concerning Linka molds is patience and gentleness.  They are wonderful products but don’t plan on getting in a hurry.

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Let them dry overnight and proceed to assemble as you like.  The wonderful thing about this project is the broken pieces are good for ruined buildings so if you break a few getting them out of the molds it’s fine.  I painted my first batch up using a red base but will probably move to more browns and earth tones for future builds.

Here are my first Linka mold buildings. I used textured wallpaper for the roof areas and sheet cork for the bases.  I need to work on getting the seams a little more disguised and will eventually add signs and some wood molding to some as well as rubble to the ruined buildings.




Pictured here with 1/72 Plastic Soldier Company Sherman M4A4 and Panzer IV for size reference.




That is this weeks project.  I will be exploring both Linka molds and Hirst Arts Molds more deeply in the future.


Night Owl